Thursday, July 4, 2013

Travel:Taptapani

Taptapani or Hot Water / Spring is situated in the Ganjam Dist of Odisha, 50 kms from the nearest rail station at Berhampur.

This sulphur spring is hidden amidst the depths of the forest in the hills in the tribal belt of Odisha.

We went to Taptapani from Rambha which is approx 129 kms away. In a Dec morning in 2008, after breakfast we started from Rambha in an auto for a day trip to Taptapani.


It was a beautiful road. We passed hamlets, villages and weekend markets. At the road side, sign boards reading “Gopalpur – on Sea: 5 kms”,”Olive Ridleys 5 kms away” allured us to deviate from our prescribed tract tempting us to steal a few moments with the Olive Ridleys on our way to the Sulphur spring. Our strictly disciplinarian auto driver refused to give in to such crazy whims of indisciplined passengers. He finally threatened us with dire consequences. In case we run out of fuel he will trek his way to his village that lies beyond 4 hills in the yonder while we can sit and guard his auto in the middle of nowhere. 

It may be observed that one can plan a Rambha-Gopalpur(on sea) - Taptapani day trip.

Moreover, one can travel from Rambha to Taptapani by public transport too. Rambha to Berhampur is connected by railway and takes less then an hour. Berhampur is also connected to Calcutta by train. Taptapani is just 50 km and can reached auto/taxi/bus which are bound for Raigada.

Trains from Rambha to Berhampur:

Bhubaneswar-Visakhapatnam Inter City Express/18411
Puri Gunupur Passenger (UnReserved)/58417
Puri-Shirdi Express Slip/17479-Slip
Puri-Tirupati Express/17479
Running along hills and forests leaving behind granite rocks we passed through tribal villages. The area is predominated by the Dingaria Kondh, Kutia Kondh, Mali and the Bonda tribes. There were picturesque mud huts with beautiful patterns made at the entrance, in the courtyard, on the walls, doors and windows. 

Curiously, our auto driver started making frequent queries in the tribal villages. On being confronted, he pointed at a distant hill saying he had been up to “that point”, beyond which he does not know which direction to take. After much field work we finally got on track. 

We started winding up the hill through the forest. Passed the OTDC Pathanivas and queued up behind tourist buses and cars. Finally, we stopped near a temple. Somewhere in the vicinity lay the hot spring. Walking through the forest of ancient trees and rocks we soon spotted the spring. The source spring covers a small area and surrounded by an enclosure. Inside the spring a worshiping deity is placed and decorated with flowers. This probably preserves the sanctity of the spring. One cannot bathe here. The water from the spring is channelized to 2 bathing chambers made for men and women respectively.

While people queued up before the men’s chamber with towel and soap, the women’s chamber which is at a distance, stood empty.I hesitantly went inside. I was so happy to find it empty. Blue tiles covered the floor and walls while the sky covered the ceiling. Steps went into the crystal clear water. There were separate compartments for normal bath and soap bath. Gently the warm Sulphur water ran over my feet and gradually I merged into it. Women who came in either touched the water with their toes or finger tips. The whole spa was left to me. My private warm Sulphur spring spa in the hills hidden in the thick forest with ancient trees guarding over it and rays of the afternoon sun stealing through the leaves to touch the water! Exotic ! Hours melted away.

Out of my spa, my husband informed me that there is no changing room! Finally, the good, old priest of the temple took pity on us and allowed us to use a room.

Rejuvenated, we realized we were starving and decided to take lunch at the Taptapani Panthanivas which is not far from the spring. In fact water from the spring is supplied to its baths through pipelines. Here again our auto driver insisted that we leave the forest before sun set as it was already quiet late in the afternoon. Happy to have left the hill, he stopped at a market place to feed us. Rice hotels served steaming rice with cauliflower pakoras on leaf plates. I preferred to thrive on fruit cakes and biscuits from a stationary shop.

On our way back we stumbled on numerous police check posts at regular intervals. We learnt that the police are on a Maoist trail in the tribal belt. Delayed, we reached Rambha late that evening. 

Taptapani trip had been a rewarding trip.

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