Thursday, July 4, 2013

Travel:Taptapani

Taptapani or Hot Water / Spring is situated in the Ganjam Dist of Odisha, 50 kms from the nearest rail station at Berhampur.

This sulphur spring is hidden amidst the depths of the forest in the hills in the tribal belt of Odisha.

We went to Taptapani from Rambha which is approx 129 kms away. In a Dec morning in 2008, after breakfast we started from Rambha in an auto for a day trip to Taptapani.


It was a beautiful road. We passed hamlets, villages and weekend markets. At the road side, sign boards reading “Gopalpur – on Sea: 5 kms”,”Olive Ridleys 5 kms away” allured us to deviate from our prescribed tract tempting us to steal a few moments with the Olive Ridleys on our way to the Sulphur spring. Our strictly disciplinarian auto driver refused to give in to such crazy whims of indisciplined passengers. He finally threatened us with dire consequences. In case we run out of fuel he will trek his way to his village that lies beyond 4 hills in the yonder while we can sit and guard his auto in the middle of nowhere. 

It may be observed that one can plan a Rambha-Gopalpur(on sea) - Taptapani day trip.

Moreover, one can travel from Rambha to Taptapani by public transport too. Rambha to Berhampur is connected by railway and takes less then an hour. Berhampur is also connected to Calcutta by train. Taptapani is just 50 km and can reached auto/taxi/bus which are bound for Raigada.

Trains from Rambha to Berhampur:

Bhubaneswar-Visakhapatnam Inter City Express/18411
Puri Gunupur Passenger (UnReserved)/58417
Puri-Shirdi Express Slip/17479-Slip
Puri-Tirupati Express/17479
Running along hills and forests leaving behind granite rocks we passed through tribal villages. The area is predominated by the Dingaria Kondh, Kutia Kondh, Mali and the Bonda tribes. There were picturesque mud huts with beautiful patterns made at the entrance, in the courtyard, on the walls, doors and windows. 

Curiously, our auto driver started making frequent queries in the tribal villages. On being confronted, he pointed at a distant hill saying he had been up to “that point”, beyond which he does not know which direction to take. After much field work we finally got on track. 

We started winding up the hill through the forest. Passed the OTDC Pathanivas and queued up behind tourist buses and cars. Finally, we stopped near a temple. Somewhere in the vicinity lay the hot spring. Walking through the forest of ancient trees and rocks we soon spotted the spring. The source spring covers a small area and surrounded by an enclosure. Inside the spring a worshiping deity is placed and decorated with flowers. This probably preserves the sanctity of the spring. One cannot bathe here. The water from the spring is channelized to 2 bathing chambers made for men and women respectively.

While people queued up before the men’s chamber with towel and soap, the women’s chamber which is at a distance, stood empty.I hesitantly went inside. I was so happy to find it empty. Blue tiles covered the floor and walls while the sky covered the ceiling. Steps went into the crystal clear water. There were separate compartments for normal bath and soap bath. Gently the warm Sulphur water ran over my feet and gradually I merged into it. Women who came in either touched the water with their toes or finger tips. The whole spa was left to me. My private warm Sulphur spring spa in the hills hidden in the thick forest with ancient trees guarding over it and rays of the afternoon sun stealing through the leaves to touch the water! Exotic ! Hours melted away.

Out of my spa, my husband informed me that there is no changing room! Finally, the good, old priest of the temple took pity on us and allowed us to use a room.

Rejuvenated, we realized we were starving and decided to take lunch at the Taptapani Panthanivas which is not far from the spring. In fact water from the spring is supplied to its baths through pipelines. Here again our auto driver insisted that we leave the forest before sun set as it was already quiet late in the afternoon. Happy to have left the hill, he stopped at a market place to feed us. Rice hotels served steaming rice with cauliflower pakoras on leaf plates. I preferred to thrive on fruit cakes and biscuits from a stationary shop.

On our way back we stumbled on numerous police check posts at regular intervals. We learnt that the police are on a Maoist trail in the tribal belt. Delayed, we reached Rambha late that evening. 

Taptapani trip had been a rewarding trip.

Travel:Rambha (Costal Odisha)


Rambha, the name paints the picture of the celestial beauty, the dancer of the paradise. On earth, it has long been the abode of the devdasis in Odissa. Situated on the banks of the Chilika, Rambha is like a virgin beauty.

Rambha cannot be reached from Calcutta directly. It can be approached from Puri/Bhubhaneswar. In the winter of 2008 we made our way to Rambha via Puri. A day out to Chilika Lake from Puri is very common. The 1,100 sqr km lagoon in the Bay of Bengal plays host to thousands of migratory birds in winter. Day tours are a hit among tourists. These tours are directed to Barkul and not Rambha. Barkul, is said to be privileged with greater share of fish and therefore can sustain more bird population. 100s of tourists every day visit Nalban, the Kalijai temple etc. But, if the winged visitors decide to give Barkul a fly, then there is little on offer.

Rambha, is a remote hamlet along the Chilika. Cozily nestled in the lap of hills with the Chilika kissing her feet. This isolated destination is an abode of peace and beauty. The lagoon surrounded by hills & forests is dotted with scattered islands that can be reached by a boat.

After warming up in Puri for a couple of days we started for Rambha. 111 km distance can be covered by car/train. Early morning we took a train from Puri. With no reservation we made it to the General compartment. The daily inter-city express to Vizag had an interesting mix of local Odisha & Andhra passengers. It was a weekday and they were people on regular business. The lagoon starts from Balugoan. As the train advances to Chilka,Kalijai,Khallikot and approaches Rambha, its rails are delicately balanced on the edge of the blue lagoon. While one side of the wagon is closely walled up by the hills, on the other side the blue waters nearly touch the foot board of the whistling train. It’s a unique experience. After 3 hrs, it’s a minute’s halt at Rambha.

Trains from Puri to Rambha:
  • Puri Gunupur Passenger
  • Puri-Tirupati Express
  • Puri-Shirdi Express Slip
From Khurda Rd Jnct too trains can be availed. There are ample trains between Puri & Khurda Rd.

In mid Dec, it was scorching hot. We left the sleepy little platform under curious eyes that are not used to seeing many tourists. We took an auto to OTDC’s Panthanivas. In 2008, it was the only shelter for tourists. So we booked in advance,online


In Dec we preferred a non AC room. We got it for 2 days but for the 3rd day we had to settle for an AC one. On phone, we repeatedly insisted on a 1st flr room to get a view of the lake.

Our stay at OTDC seems to be jinxed. Whichever OTDC we go to, we are always welcomed by bamboos, cans of paint, chisels and hammers. We always crush in at the time of renovation. Rambha was no exception. Upstairs, the room wasn’t big. We went to the balcony. And all disappointment vanished. It was a spacious balcony with 2 big comfortable chairs and a tea table. In front of us was the blue lagoon surrounded by hills and forests with islands dotting its surface. Exotic view! 

At lunch we met a few more guests. Food at OTDC is good but very costly. Prawns and Crabs are delicious. We spend the afternoon exploring the premises. The lush green lawns, colourful flowerbeds and huge trees. At the back yard a narrow path through the garden leads to the jetty on Chilika. From here one could get a boat for a cruise. Chilika Lake was in the back yard of Panthanivas ! It was indeed a 5 Star location.

Once comfortable with our surroundings, we ventured out into the town. First we noticed that the Panthanivas did not have a proper gate! It smelt of wilderness as we walked along a narrow road that cut across the hamlet. Small church, shops, food stalls and the market place. There was no concept of ‘meal’ in any food stall. Its tea and snacks, the most popular being cauliflower and chili pakoras. We realized that there was no escape from the hotel kitchen. We bought bread, local buns, jam, biscuits and fruits for fill ins. As the sun went down oil lamps and tired bulbs lit the shops. Villagers thronged in groups chatting and smoking. We chatted with the locals who soon shied away from our queries about the devdasi quarters. Strangely, whether it’s the villagers or the OTDC guys, all were tight lipped about the devdasis.

Darkness was waiting to swallow us outside the market place. There are no street lights. Soon we were puzzled by the speeding 18 wheelers that rushed up & down the narrow road almost knocking us into the shops on the fringes or into the wild bushes. We learnt it was NH5.

It was an unforgettable evening. From the infinite darkness there twinkled chunks and chunks of little stars at our arm's length and above us. Time, space and distance between the stars on the earth (glow worms) and stars in the sky seem to have merged into one another. Breath taking!

Next morning we planned a cruise. We hired an entire boat(motor) from OTDC as we did not find any co sharer. The boat was equipped with life belts and walkie talkie. That winter the birds had given Chilika a miss due to the warming. In our part of the lagoon we had other interesting things to do. Hopping into the boat from our own back yard we made it to the Breakfast Island first. This island was visible from our balcony. An island of the size of a cabin. A white cabin was built for the King & Queen of Khallikot to have breakfast .How romantic! I wish we had packed our breakfast.

Then one by one we visited Becon Island, Somolo Island and Honeymoon Island as our boat gently passed through the blue waves .Our guide was an interesting fellow. He will never go hungry. On every island he found varieties of berries to feast on. We landed on an island the name of which I don’t recall, it had a tattering jetty and a living sample of eco tourism disaster. The Island was strewn with broken commodes of earst-while eco tents. It was habited by a single family of fishermen. Another Island showed contrasting faces of Chilika. I sat on a rock. On one side, the water was still as a mirror on the other the side big blue waves broke on the same rock. On our way back, as our boat neared Rambha, it seemed as if Panthanivas was carved in the hill. A perfectly framed photograph.

Post lunch we decided to look around Rambha. We hired an auto. First we went to Khallikote Govt Art college. Once patronized by the king, the Art College is situated in a serene hamlet. Although classes were over, we got an opportunity have some chat with the students who showed us around. There are some really talented artists. We had a nice time visiting various departments and got the taste of various styles.

Next was Nirmaljhara. We were taken to a temple. A nice, well laid out peaceful place. What struck me was the clean pure water that ran throughout the temple along various channels. A search for its source led me to the hill at the back of the temple. It’s a spring that flows from the hill to the temple and is channelized. The village women flock to the temple to collect fresh drinking water. We then noticed an excavation by the administration for the purpose of canalizing the water out of the temple to the village. A discovery of the excavation left us awe struck. In a dug up hole, a few feet deep, there lay a black stone resembling a Shiva Ling with a stack of hay stuck on its head. On request when the laborers removed the stack to our surprise water gushed out of black stone, like Ganga gushing out of Shiva’s hair.

The Narayani temple is guarded by tall straight trees in the forest on the hill. One has to climb many steps along which there runs a stream to reach the shrine. It’s a picturesque place. We did not stay for long. It was dusk and chilly in the forest. We were not carrying anything warm. On our way back, the traffic jam at NH5 held us up for 3 hrs. We reached the hotel at night cold and hungry.

On our last day we went on a day trip to Taptapani. It was a rewarding trip. 

Next morning we left Rambha for Puri. In the morning we bought the tickets of inter city express. Seeing its delay we boarded a passenger train to Khurda Rd. From Khurda Rd we just took whatever train was available for Puri. It was a smooth journey.

Friday, June 21, 2013

Travel : Tajpur(Coastal West Bengal) - A Refreshing Get-Away





A secluded sun kissed motorable beach, silver waves, busy crabs, deep emerald casuarina forest….this is Tajpur. Just 4hrs away from Calcutta, this little fishing village is gradually making into the tourist map of West Bengal.
 
Off shooting from the Kolkata-Digha Route, Tajpur is not convenient to access. Perhaps this inconvenience and lack of proper infrastructure that reigns the flood of tourists from invading it. Its parse population and restricted tourist inflow have helped in preserving its freshness.
 
 
Setting out for Tajpur one Saturday morning, we took a bus to Digha from Esplanade. Any Kolkata –Digha bus will take you there. We had no booking in advance. Numerous buses, AC & non-AC leave Esplanade every morning. The first set of AC buses leave around 7.30 am. They cost between Rs.300/- to Rs.350/-. They are comfortable enough for a 4hr journey. During the journey, one 15 min break is allowed in Kolaghat. Around 11.30 am we got down at Balisai. Alternatively one can skip Balisai and get down at Ramnagar. Ramnagar is a natural choise if one comes by train.
 
 
Balisai is 6km from Tajpur. One can avail the hotel pickup which usually costs around Rs.250/- or take a motorized Rickshaw Van which charges tourist anything between Rs.100/- and Rs.150/- . Negotiation is always advised.
 
 
From Balisai, the partially pucca road runs between numerous fisheries on both sides while the horizon is hemmed by the green casuarinas that wall the sea. Slowly as the fisheries vanish, one can smell the wilderness as the deserted path winds along the Whistling Pines to meet the sea.
 
We travelled till the end where the road vanished into the white sand. There stood the Blue Lagoon enveloped in thicket of tall straight pines. We could hear the smashing waves. From the lobby we caught a glimpse of the molten silver. Incidentally, in Tajpur, no hotel offers a room with a view. There are no hotels on the beach. Blue Lagoon happens to occupy the best location as of date. Like all other hotels Blue Lagoon is elemental. It however offers AC accommodation and a pick-up & drop service from Balsai/Ramnagar. Here too we had no advance booking and had to settle for a non-AC stay. This however was not uncomfortable as the pine forest almost peeped into our room, the cool breeze and the singing sea added to the pleasure.
 
 
Once we checked in, we decided to take lunch and then a plunge. Here we learnt that there runs the ‘Meal/Thali’ system in all hotels and beach shacks .You can only choose the type of non-veg item and fish. The time and type of snacks are also fixed. Food is costly. Alcohol is usually not offered by hotels. They serve if you are carrying it. Beach shacks however provide beer/vodka/rum along with coconut water. For a packet of biscuit/chips/band aid one has to travel 6kms to Balisai incase hotel beach shacks fail to cater.
 

After a good lunch we headed for the beach which was a minute away. Stood on the hard beach and before us lay a vast stretch of wet sand and streams running through it and at the far end waves breaking into the streams. And numerous crabs ran around, busy decorating the wet sand. This was all our eyes could see. We negotiated through the streams with varying depths and made to the waves. After 4 hrs in the warm waters we returned to the hotel and went back in the evening. It was magical. The whole world seemed to be dipped in blue. The beach shacks keep plastic chairs on the beach where you can make
yourself comfortable. This comfort comes free. As darkness descends the streams are swallowed by the waves. By 8pm the waves touch the screw pine groves and the shacks are flooded. In the cover of darkness, the faded light from the shacks and headlights of numerous hired bikes light up the beach as they tear through it. The light in the trawlers light up the horizon. There are no street lights /beach lights. The world outside the hotel is pitch dark. One has to carry a torch. Advantaged by the position of Blue lagoon, accessing the sea after dark was not a problem. Walking through the dark sandy trail along the Whistling Pines to the advancing sea felt great!
 

In the morning a smashing Bay of Bengal in full high greeted us. The red gravels buried at the foot of the screw pines were routed by strong waves. As the cool waves felt good we soon realized that the strong undercurrent was eroding the hardness under our feet. After 2 hrs of fun in the rushing waves we left the beach.
 
11.30am is the checkout time for all hotels. There are various ways to find your way out of Tajpur. You can book a seat in the Digha-Kolkata bound bus either from Kolkata / through the hotel in advance. All buses from Digha pass via Ramnagar,Balisai & Chaul Khola. If you are leaving Tajpur right away you can board the bus from Ramnagar/Balisai.
 
 
Incase of advance booking always stick to your convenient boarding point.
 
If you wish to enjoy Mandarmani beach on your way back, then board the bus from Chaul Khola. Get your hotel to drop you at Chaul Khola instead of Balisai which costs the same. Take a motorized rickshaw van from Chaul Khola to Mandarmani beach. Enjoy the beach. Dine there. Return to Chaul Khola and board the bus.
 
On the way back incase you like to spend some time in New Digha beach and Udaipur beach which is another beautiful virgin beach you may board the bus from Old Digha. Go to Balisai. Take any bus to Digha (there are ample available) it will not cost more than Rs.20/-25/- and will take around 20 mins to reach Old Digha Bus Stand. From there take a rickshaw van to New Digha beach. It will cost between Rs.50/- and Rs.80/- depending on your negotiation skills. After having your fill in New Digha take a rickshaw van to Udaipur beach which is just 15 mins away. Its a lovely beach. Then get back to Old Digha Bus Stand and board your bus.
 
Alternatively, one can go to Ramnagar and take a train to Digha
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Incase you don’t have a bus ticket there is nothing to panic. You need not allow hotels to exploit you. Kolkata bound buses leave Old Digha Bus Stand every 10 mins. Come to Old Digha Bus Stand in the aforesaid way and get a suitable bus ticket for yourself.

Alternatively you can take a train back to kolkata. Trains can be either boarded from Digha Flag Station which is in New Digha or from Ramnagar.

Digha-Kolkata Trains that halt at Ramnagar are:
From Digha 2 additional trains are available:

Enjoy Tajpur but always negotiate with hotels on the final bill /transport/tickets.

Some Hotels: Accommodation usually is not below 1000/-

1. Hotel: Swapnapuri
Contact No.: 9932696841

2. Hotel: New Soner Bangla
Contact No.: 9732761477 / 9647238302

3. Hotel: Hotel Sree
Contact No.: 9733874440

4. Hotel: Tajpur Holiday Inn
Contact No.: 9434112120

5. Hotel: Mallicka
Contact No.: 9836667900

6. Hotel: Green Earth
Contact No.: 9804254019

7. Hotel: Tajpur Beach Resort
Contact No.: 9830818855

8. Hotel: Sagar Kinare
Contact No.: 9732592801

9.Hotel: Tajpur Retreat
Contact No.: 9830271064

10.Hotel: Friends
Contact No.: 9735414009 / 9732501903

11.Hotel: Blue Lagoon (1min from the beach)
Contact No.: 9836251950 / 9831044296 / 9831016287

12.Hotel: Nature Camp
ontact No.: 9831167537

13.Hotel: Lake View
Contact No.: 9732576068

14.Hotel: Lona Chatar
Contact No.: 9775069493 / 9007068359
Email: lonachatar@gmail.com

15.Hotel: Surjya Kuthir
Contact No.: 9732561001

16.Hotel: Sagar Kanya
Contact No.: 9830790319

17.Hotel: Chitrakut Abhas
Contact No.: 9748590482

18.Hotel: Hotel Sea Conifers
Contact No.: 9051087145

19.Hotel: Hotel Balram
Contact No.: 9830079092